Summary
Long-term instrumental measurements of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing period at 7 stations are analysed. The marginal distribution of significant heights is well described by a Weibull law. The long-term distribution of individual wave heights is calculated from the joint distribution of significant wave height and mean wave period. It is found to be nearly exponential.
Zusammenfassung
Langfristige Messungen bedeutender Wellenhöhen und der mittleren Null-Durchgangsperiode, die mit Hilfe von Instrumenten auf sieben Stationen durchgeführt worden sind, werden analysiert. Die Randwertverteilung bedeutender Wellenhöhen wird in einem Weibull-Gesetz sehr gut dargestellt. Die langfristige Verteilung einzelner Wellenhöhen wird errechnet aus dem Zusammentreffen von bedeutenden Wellenhöhen und mittleren Wellenperioden. Es hat sich gezeigt, daß sie fast exponentiell ist.
Résumé
On analyse des mesures instrumentales, pendant une longue durée, de hauteurs de vagues signicatifs et de période moyenne voisine de zéro en 7 stations. La distribution marginale de hauteurs significatives correspond bien à une loi de Weibull. La distribution sur une longue durée de hauteurs de vagues individuelles, est calculée à partir de la distribution conjointe de hauteur de vague significative et de période de vague moyenne. On trouve qu'elle est approximativement exponentielle.
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Battjes, J.A. Long-term wave height distributions at seven stations around the British Isles. Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift 25, 179–189 (1972). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02312702
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02312702