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Joining the Global Wine World: Japan’s Winemaking Industry

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Feeding Japan

Abstract

Japan is not only a country of sake and tea but also a country of wine. This chapter traces Japan’s history of wine production as a process of state-led cultural globalization. It argues that national and regional governments have been the key actors in developing and promoting Japan’s winemaking culture. However, governments are not the only important actors. As this chapter will show, Japan’s wine culture is constructed by a collaborative network of actors including governments, private companies, individual winemakers, research institutes and consumers. Among all these actors, national and regional governments play the key role in initiating and organizing the whole project of promoting Japanese wine culture inside and outside Japan. Wine culture is used as an important local resource for regional food culture promotion to ultimately facilitate local economic and agricultural revival. The state-industry collaboration in developing Japan’s winemaking culture thus represents another case of culinary politics in Japan. In both the Meiji period and the present era wine production has been a national project: first geared to modernization now to globalization.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    Yamanashi Kankō, ‘Chiri teki hyōji Yamanashi’.

  2. 2.

    Johnson and Robinson, World Atlas of Wine, 377.

  3. 3.

    Nagano Prefecture, ‘The Initiative of Shinshu’, 3–4.

  4. 4.

    Takahashi, ‘Nihon wain no chiri’, 8.

  5. 5.

    See Alexander, Brewed in Japan; Checkland, Japanese Whisky.

  6. 6.

    Lukacs, Inventing Wine, 239–277.

  7. 7.

    Robertson, ‘Glocalization: Time-Space’, 28.

  8. 8.

    See Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’; Farrer, ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines’.

  9. 9.

    Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 7–8.

  10. 10.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 523.

  11. 11.

    Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 153–154.

  12. 12.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.

  13. 13.

    Shikatori, Nihon wain, 3; Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.

  14. 14.

    Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 87–94.

  15. 15.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 523.

  16. 16.

    Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 100.

  17. 17.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.

  18. 18.

    Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 159.

  19. 19.

    The winery still exists today. It is called Chateau Kamiya.

  20. 20.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 525.

  21. 21.

    Ibid, 524.

  22. 22.

    Shikatori, Nihon wain, 4.

  23. 23.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 526.

  24. 24.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524; Hozumi, ‘Yamanashiken wain seisan’, 555.

  25. 25.

    Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 8.

  26. 26.

    Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 525.

  27. 27.

    Ibid, 525.

  28. 28.

    Ibid, 524.

  29. 29.

    Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15; Shikatori, Nihon wain, 5; Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 41.

  30. 30.

    Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15; Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 10.

  31. 31.

    Asai, ‘Wain yō budō no genjō to mirai’, 342.

  32. 32.

    Shikatori, Nihon wain, 5.

  33. 33.

    Lukacs, Inventing Wine, 278–314.

  34. 34.

    Nakada, ‘Kōshū wain no Yōroppa senryaku’, 33.

  35. 35.

    Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 14.

  36. 36.

    Shikatori, Nihon wain, 8.

  37. 37.

    Nihon Keizai Shimbun, ‘Wain seisan Kanagawa’.

  38. 38.

    Shikatori, Nihon wain, 9.

  39. 39.

    The word terroir comes from French word gout du terroir. The concept of terroir embraces both natural and cultural aspects of a place. Thus, theoretically, a terroir product is assumed to reflect the nature and culture of where the product comes from.

  40. 40.

    Chan, ‘Terroir and Green Tea’, 226.

  41. 41.

    Yamamoto, Yamanashi ken no wain, 34.

  42. 42.

    National Research Institute of Brewing, ‘Kōshū budō no rūtsu’.

  43. 43.

    Hozumi, ‘Yamanashiken wain seisan’, 555.

  44. 44.

    Ibid.

  45. 45.

    Asai, ‘Wain yō budō no genjō to mirai’, 339.

  46. 46.

    Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15.

  47. 47.

    Kirin Holdings, ‘Daiikkai: Kōshū wain’.

  48. 48.

    Sur Lie is a French word, meaning on the lees. Sur Lie aging is a process to extract flavours by allowing an aged wine to continue to sit on the lees.

  49. 49.

    Kirin Holdings, ‘Dainikkai: Haiiro’.

  50. 50.

    Misawa, ‘Sai chosen’, 2.

  51. 51.

    Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 1.

  52. 52.

    Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka’.

  53. 53.

    Misawa, ‘Sai chosen’, 2.

  54. 54.

    Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka no gunshin’.

  55. 55.

    See also Farrer’s contribution on Japanese cuisine in Shanghai in this volume.

  56. 56.

    Cool Japan Strategy Promotion Council, ‘Cool Japan Strategy’.

  57. 57.

    National Tax Agency, ‘Japan. ‘Kampai’’.

  58. 58.

    Yamanashi Prefecture, ‘Kōshū wain ōshū’.

  59. 59.

    Yamanashi Commerce and Industry Association, ‘Koshu wine EU export’.

  60. 60.

    J-Net21, ‘Nihon wain ga sekai’.

  61. 61.

    Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15.

  62. 62.

    Yamanashi Commerce and Industry Association, ‘Koshu wine EU export’.

  63. 63.

    J-Net21, ‘Nihon wain ga sekai’.

  64. 64.

    Kirin Holdings, ‘Wain sankō shiryō’.

  65. 65.

    Ibid.

  66. 66.

    See also Stegewern’s article in this volume.

  67. 67.

    NHK Broadcasting Culture Research Institute, Nihonjin no suki na mono, 31.

  68. 68.

    Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’, 10.

  69. 69.

    See, e.g., Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’; Wank and Farrer, ‘Chinese immigrants’; Farrer, ‘Shanghai’s Western Restaurants’; Sawaguchi, ‘Japanese cooks in Italy’; Ceccarini, Pizza and Pizza Chefs.

  70. 70.

    Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka no gunshin’.

  71. 71.

    Nihon Keizai Shimbun, ‘Nihon wain sannen’.

  72. 72.

    Takahashi, Nōrinsuisanbutsu inshokuhin.

  73. 73.

    Farrer, ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines’, 10–12; see also Assmann’s contribution in this volume.

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Wang, C. (2017). Joining the Global Wine World: Japan’s Winemaking Industry. In: Niehaus, A., Walravens, T. (eds) Feeding Japan. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-50553-4_9

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