Abstract
Japan is not only a country of sake and tea but also a country of wine. This chapter traces Japan’s history of wine production as a process of state-led cultural globalization. It argues that national and regional governments have been the key actors in developing and promoting Japan’s winemaking culture. However, governments are not the only important actors. As this chapter will show, Japan’s wine culture is constructed by a collaborative network of actors including governments, private companies, individual winemakers, research institutes and consumers. Among all these actors, national and regional governments play the key role in initiating and organizing the whole project of promoting Japanese wine culture inside and outside Japan. Wine culture is used as an important local resource for regional food culture promotion to ultimately facilitate local economic and agricultural revival. The state-industry collaboration in developing Japan’s winemaking culture thus represents another case of culinary politics in Japan. In both the Meiji period and the present era wine production has been a national project: first geared to modernization now to globalization.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Similar content being viewed by others
Notes
- 1.
Yamanashi Kankō, ‘Chiri teki hyōji Yamanashi’.
- 2.
Johnson and Robinson, World Atlas of Wine, 377.
- 3.
Nagano Prefecture, ‘The Initiative of Shinshu’, 3–4.
- 4.
Takahashi, ‘Nihon wain no chiri’, 8.
- 5.
See Alexander, Brewed in Japan; Checkland, Japanese Whisky.
- 6.
Lukacs, Inventing Wine, 239–277.
- 7.
Robertson, ‘Glocalization: Time-Space’, 28.
- 8.
See Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’; Farrer, ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines’.
- 9.
Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 7–8.
- 10.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 523.
- 11.
Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 153–154.
- 12.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.
- 13.
Shikatori, Nihon wain, 3; Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.
- 14.
Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 87–94.
- 15.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 523.
- 16.
Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 100.
- 17.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524.
- 18.
Asai, Nihon no wain tanjō, 159.
- 19.
The winery still exists today. It is called Chateau Kamiya.
- 20.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 525.
- 21.
Ibid, 524.
- 22.
Shikatori, Nihon wain, 4.
- 23.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 526.
- 24.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 524; Hozumi, ‘Yamanashiken wain seisan’, 555.
- 25.
Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 8.
- 26.
Asai, ‘Wain gyōkai’, 525.
- 27.
Ibid, 525.
- 28.
Ibid, 524.
- 29.
Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15; Shikatori, Nihon wain, 5; Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 41.
- 30.
Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15; Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 10.
- 31.
Asai, ‘Wain yō budō no genjō to mirai’, 342.
- 32.
Shikatori, Nihon wain, 5.
- 33.
Lukacs, Inventing Wine, 278–314.
- 34.
Nakada, ‘Kōshū wain no Yōroppa senryaku’, 33.
- 35.
Kawai, Usuke bōizu, 14.
- 36.
Shikatori, Nihon wain, 8.
- 37.
Nihon Keizai Shimbun, ‘Wain seisan Kanagawa’.
- 38.
Shikatori, Nihon wain, 9.
- 39.
The word terroir comes from French word gout du terroir. The concept of terroir embraces both natural and cultural aspects of a place. Thus, theoretically, a terroir product is assumed to reflect the nature and culture of where the product comes from.
- 40.
Chan, ‘Terroir and Green Tea’, 226.
- 41.
Yamamoto, Yamanashi ken no wain, 34.
- 42.
National Research Institute of Brewing, ‘Kōshū budō no rūtsu’.
- 43.
Hozumi, ‘Yamanashiken wain seisan’, 555.
- 44.
Ibid.
- 45.
Asai, ‘Wain yō budō no genjō to mirai’, 339.
- 46.
Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15.
- 47.
Kirin Holdings, ‘Daiikkai: Kōshū wain’.
- 48.
Sur Lie is a French word, meaning on the lees. Sur Lie aging is a process to extract flavours by allowing an aged wine to continue to sit on the lees.
- 49.
Kirin Holdings, ‘Dainikkai: Haiiro’.
- 50.
Misawa, ‘Sai chosen’, 2.
- 51.
Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 1.
- 52.
Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka’.
- 53.
Misawa, ‘Sai chosen’, 2.
- 54.
Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka no gunshin’.
- 55.
See also Farrer’s contribution on Japanese cuisine in Shanghai in this volume.
- 56.
Cool Japan Strategy Promotion Council, ‘Cool Japan Strategy’.
- 57.
National Tax Agency, ‘Japan. ‘Kampai’’.
- 58.
Yamanashi Prefecture, ‘Kōshū wain ōshū’.
- 59.
Yamanashi Commerce and Industry Association, ‘Koshu wine EU export’.
- 60.
J-Net21, ‘Nihon wain ga sekai’.
- 61.
Maeshima and Higawa, ‘Ni ryū kara’, 15.
- 62.
Yamanashi Commerce and Industry Association, ‘Koshu wine EU export’.
- 63.
J-Net21, ‘Nihon wain ga sekai’.
- 64.
Kirin Holdings, ‘Wain sankō shiryō’.
- 65.
Ibid.
- 66.
See also Stegewern’s article in this volume.
- 67.
NHK Broadcasting Culture Research Institute, Nihonjin no suki na mono, 31.
- 68.
Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’, 10.
- 69.
See, e.g., Assmann, ‘Food Action Nippon’; Wank and Farrer, ‘Chinese immigrants’; Farrer, ‘Shanghai’s Western Restaurants’; Sawaguchi, ‘Japanese cooks in Italy’; Ceccarini, Pizza and Pizza Chefs.
- 70.
Kawauchi, ‘Josei jōzōka no gunshin’.
- 71.
Nihon Keizai Shimbun, ‘Nihon wain sannen’.
- 72.
Takahashi, Nōrinsuisanbutsu inshokuhin.
- 73.
Farrer, ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines’, 10–12; see also Assmann’s contribution in this volume.
Bibliography
Alexander, Jeffrey W. Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry. Vancouver, Toronto: UBC press, 2013.
Asai, Shogo. ‘Wain gyōkai no 70 nen’ [70 Years of the Wine Association]. Japan Brewing Association Magazine 70, 8 (1975): 523–526.
Asai, Shogo. ‘Wain yō budō no genjō to mirai’ [The Current State and Future of Wine Grapes]. Japan Brewing Association Magazine 88, 5 (1993): 338–343.
Asai, Usuke. Nihon no wain tanjō to yōran jidai: Honpō budōshu sangyōshi ronkō [The Birth and Cradle Age of Japan’s Wine: Discussion of Japanese Wine Industry History]. Tokyo: Nihon Keizai Hyōronsha, 1992.
Assmann, Stephanie. ‘Food Action Nippon and Slow Food Japan: The Role of Two Citizen Movements in the Rediscovery of Local Foodways’. In Globalization: Food and Social Identities in the Asia Pacific Region, ed. James Farrer, Tokyo: Sophia University Institute of Comparative Culture, 2010. http://icc.fla.sophia.ac.jp/global%20food%20papers/pdf/2_2_ASSMANN.pdf.
Ceccarini, Rossella. Pizza and Pizza Chefs in Japan: A Case of Culinary Globalization. Leiden: Brill Academic Pub, 2011.
Chan, Selina Ching. ‘Terroir and Green Tea in China: The Case of Meijiawu Dragon Well (Longjing) Tea’. In Geographical Indications and International Agricultural Trade: The Challenge for Asia, ed. Louis Augustin-Jean, Hélène Ilbert, and Neantro Saavedra-Rivano, 226–238. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2012.
Checkland, Olive. Japanese Whisky, Scotch Blend: Masataka Taketsuru, the Japanese Whisky King and Rita, his Scotch Wife. Trans. Yōko Waki, Tokyo: NHK, 2014.
Cool Japan Strategy Promotion Council. ‘Cool Japan Strategy Public-Private Collaboration’. http://www.cas.go.jp/jp/seisaku/cool_japan/pdf/20150617_initiative_honbun_e.pdf.
Farrer, James. ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines In and Out of Asia: Toward a Framework for Studying Culinary Globalization’. In The Globalization of Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Culinary Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 1–19. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.
Farrer, James. ‘Shanghai’s Western Restaurants as Culinary Contact Zones in a Transnational Culinary Field’. In The Globalization of Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Culinary Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 103–124. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.
Hozumi, Tadahiko. ‘Yamanashi ken wain seisan no genjō’ [The Current State of Wine Production in Yamanashi Prefecture]. Japan Brewing Association Magazine 53, 8 (1958): 555–560.
J-Net21. ‘Nihon wain ga sekai e – Kōshū wain, chūō budōshu’ [Japanese Wine Goes Overseas – Koshu Wine, Chūō budōshu]. J-Net21. http://j-net21.smrj.go.jp/expand/japanbrand/entry/2014011401.html.
Johnson, Hugh, and Jancis Robinson. The World Atlas of Wine. London: Mitchell Beazley, 2013.
Kawai, Kaori. Usuke bōizu: Nihon wain no kakuji tachi [Usuke Boys: The Revolutionists of Japanese Wine]. Tokyo: Shogakukan, 2010.
Kawauchi, Io. ‘Josei jōzōka no gunshin no wain ni sekai ga kyōtan shita: Nihon koyū no kōshūshu de mezasu wain no kakushin’ [The World Is Surprised by the Wine Made by Women Winemaker: Wine Revolution by Japan’s Indigenous Koshu Grape]. Toyo Keizai Online. http://toyokeizai.net/articles/-/87033.
Kirin Holdings. ‘Daiikkai: Kōshū wain wo hiyakusaseta shūruri seihō’ [Episode One: Sur Lie Winemaking Method Dramatically Improved Koshu Wine]. Kirin Holdings. http://www.kirin.co.jp/entertainment/winediscovery/feature/kosyu/column_01.html.
Kirin Holdings. ‘Dainikkai: Haiiro budō kara tsukurareta haiiro no wain’ [Episode Two: Grey Wine Made from Grey Grape]. Kirin Holdings. http://www.kirin.co.jp/entertainment/winediscovery/feature/kosyu/column_02.html.
Kirin Holdings. ‘Wain sankō shiryō’ [Reference for Wine]. Kirin Holdings. http://www.kirin.co.jp/company/data/marketdata/pdf/market_wine_2015.pdf.
Koshu of Japan. ‘Kōshū wain wo sekai he’ [Let Koshu Wine Go Overseas]. Koshu of Japan. http://www.koshuofjapan.com/ja/index.html.
Lukacs, Paul. Inventing Wine: A New History of One of the World’s Most Ancient Pleasures. New York, London: W. W. Norton & Company, 2013.
Maeshima, Fumihiko, and Yoshiki Higawa. ‘Ni ryū kara yuiitsu muni he’ [From Second Class to the Only One]. Yamanashi Nichinichi Shimbun, July 1, 2012.
Misawa, Ayana. ‘Sai chōsen de mukaeta shūkaku’ [The Harvest after the Second Challenge]. Gureisu Wain Tsūshin 59, 2, June 25, 2014.
Nagano Prefecture. ‘Shinshū wain barei no kōzō’ [The Initiative of Shinshu Wine Valley]. Nagano Prefecture. http://www.nagano-wine.jp/charm/shinshuwinevalley_kousou.pdf.
Nakada, Michihiro. ‘Kōshū wain no Yōroppa senryaku’ [The Strategy for Koshu Wine in Europe]. Jichidai Kokusaika Kyōkai. http://www.clair.or.jp/j/forum/forum/pdf_276/11_economy.pdf.
National Research Institute of Brewing. ‘Kōshū budō no rūtsu’ [The Roots of the Koshu Grape]. http://www.nrib.go.jp/sake/pdf/NRIBNo27.pdf.
National Tax Agency. ‘Japan. ‘Kampai’ to the World.’ https://www.nta.go.jp/shiraberu/senmonjoho/sake/yushutsu/01.htm.
NHK Broadcasting Culture Research Institute. Nihonjin no suki na mono: Dēta de yomu shikō to kachikan [The Things Japanese like: Reading Preferences and Values of Japanese People from Data]. Tokyo: NHK Shuppan, 2007.
Nihon Keizai Shimbun. ‘Nihon wain sannen go ni shikkō kokuzeichō hyōji rūru sakutei’ [National Tax Agency made Geographic Indication Rule for Japanese Wine and Implement Three Years Later]. Nihon Keizai Shinbun. http://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXLASDG29HA1_Z21C15A0CR8000/.
Nihon Keizai Shimbun. ‘Wain seisan Kanagawa ga nii no wake’ [Why Kanagawa’s Wine Production Ranks in Second Place]. Nihon Keizai Shinbun. http://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXDZO08598150T00C10A6NNC000/.
Robertson, Roland. ‘Glocalization: Time-Space and Homogeneity-Heterogeneity’. In Global Modernities, eds. Mike Featherstone, Scott Lash, and Roland Robertson, 25–44. London: Sage, 1995.
Sawaguchi, Keiichi. ‘Japanese Cooks in Italy: The Path-Dependent Development of a Culinary Field’. In The Globalization of Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Culinary Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 125–141. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.
Shikatori, Miyuki. Nihon wain [Japanese Wine]. Tokyo: Nijiyusha, 2011.
Takahashi, Teiji. Nōrin suisanbutsu inshokuhin no chiri teki hyōji: Chiiki no sambutsu no kachi wo takameru seido riyō no tebiki [Geographical Indications for Agricultural Products: Guidance for Using the System for Upgrading the Value of Regional Products]. Nōzan Gyōmura Bunka Kyōkai, 2015.
Takahashi, Teiji. ‘Nihon wain no chiri teki hyōji no hōkō’ [The Direction of Japan’s Wine Geographic Indication]. http://www.ab.auone-net.jp/~ttt/GIJapanwineIII.pdf.
Wank, David L., and James Farrer. ‘Japanese Cuisine in the United States: A Case of Culinary Glocalization’. In The Globalization of Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Culinary Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 79–99. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.
Yamamoto, Hiroshi. Yamanashi ken no wain [Wine in Yamanashi]. Tokyo: Wine Kingdom, 2008.
Yamanashi Commerce and Industry Association. ‘Koshu Wine EU Export Project’. http://www.koshu-sci.jp/koj/support.html.
Yamanashi Kankō. ‘Chiri teki hyōji: Yamanashi de sekai no Yamanashi ni’ [Making Yamanashi a World Brand by Geographical Indication]. https://www.yamanashi-kankou.jp/taste/wine/documents/wine_syoukai.pdf.
Yamanashi Prefecture. ‘Kōshū wain ōshū yushutsu sokushin purojekuto e no shien’ [Support for the Project of Exporting Koshu Wine to Europe]. http://www.pref.yamanashi.jp/chiikisng/wine/documents/koshuwineforeignpromotion.html.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2017 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Wang, C. (2017). Joining the Global Wine World: Japan’s Winemaking Industry. In: Niehaus, A., Walravens, T. (eds) Feeding Japan. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-50553-4_9
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-50553-4_9
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-50552-7
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-50553-4
eBook Packages: Social SciencesSocial Sciences (R0)