Abstract
While dressing modestly has widely not been recognized as compatible with Western fashion codes, the reception of Muslim appeal is recently shifting. Emerging on from social media such as Instagram, where Muslim women launched the hashtag “Modest Fashion,” mainstream fashion magazines have picked up on the topic. As recently seen on runways, the headscarf is having a fashion moment, provoking controversies within and beyond Muslim contexts. This article illustrates how mainstream fashion media take part in the discourse on intersectional diversity and by this negotiate the role of Muslim women and their visibility in fashion. The data presented is based on an discourse ethnography analyzing the perception of (Muslim) embodied aesthetics in Muslim-minority contexts.
Many thanks to Marius van Hoogstraten for language editing and his helpful conceptual feedback.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Binder, Beate, and Sabine Hess. 2011. Intersektionalität aus der Perspektive der europäischen Ethnologie. In Intersektionalität revisited. Empirische, theoretische und methodologische Erkundungen, ed. Sabine Hess, Nikola Langreiter, and Elisabeth Timm, 15–52. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Bourdieu, Pierre. [1979] 2014. Die feinen Unterschiede: Kritik der gesellschaftlichen Urteilskraft. Frankfurt (Main): Suhrkamp.
Bruggemann, Daniëlle. 2018. Dissolving the Ego of Fashion: Engaging with Human Matters. ArtEZ Press.
Butler, Judith. 1991. Das Unbehagen der Geschlechter. Frankfurt (Main): Suhrkamp.
Crenshaw, Kimberlé W. 1991. Mapping the Margins. Intersectionality, Identity Politics, and Violence against Women of Colour. Stanford Law Review 43: 1241–1299.
Crenshaw, Kimberlé W. 2016 The Urgency of Intersectionality. Filmed December 7, 2016, TEDTALK. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akOe5-UsQ2o. Accessed 13 October 2020.
Dazed Digital. 2019. How Can the Fashion Industry Be More Inclusive? Instagram Photo, September 9, 2019. https://www.instagram.com/p/B2WF1CGHQAE/?igshid=dmh104k6zme. Accessed 13 October 2020.
Dutta, Nayantara. 2018. Is the Fashion Industry Fetishising the Hijab? Dazed Digital, March 12, 2018. https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/39354/1/the-fashion-industry-fetishising-the-hijab-aw18-runways-headscarves-trend-islam. Accessed 13 Oct 2020.
Delhaye, Christine. 2019. The Production of African Wax Cloth in a Neoliberal Global Market. Vlisco and the Processes of Imitation and Appropriation. In Fashion and Postcolonial Critique, ed. Elke Gaugele, and Monica Titton, 246–259. Wien: Akademie der bildenden Künste.
Foroutan, Naika. 2018. Was will eine postmigrantische Gesellschaftsanalyse? In Postmigrantische Perspektiven: Ordnungssysteme, Repräsentationen, Kritik, ed. Riem Spielhaus, Naika Foroutan, and Juliane Karakayali, 269–300. Bonn: Bundeszentrale für politische Bildung.
Göle, Nilüfer. 2004. Die sichtbare Präsenz des Islam und die Grenzen der Öffentlichkeit. In Islam in Sicht. Der Auftritt von Muslimen im öffentlichen Raum, ed. Nilüfer Göle, and Ludwig Ammann, 11–43. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Gutiérrez Rodríguez, Encarnación. 2011. Intersektionalität oder: Wie nicht über Rassismus sprechen? In Intersektionalität revisited. Empirische, theoretische und methodologische Erkundungen, ed. Sabine Hess, Nikola Langreiter, and Elisabeth Timm, 77–100. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Haddad, Laura. 2017. Anerkennung und Widerstand. Lokale islamische Identitätspraxis in Hamburg. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Herding, Maruta. 2013. Inventing the Muslim Cool. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Hirschauer, Stefan. 2004. Praktiken und ihre Körper. Über materielle Partizipanden des Tuns. In Doing culture: neue Positionen zum Verhältnis von Kultur und sozialer Praxis, ed. Karl H. Hörning, and Julia Reuter, 73–91. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Ihring, Silvia. 2019. Sogar Rapper tragen jetzt Kopftücher wie Großmutter. DIE WELT, May 27 2019. https://www.welt.de/icon/mode/article194098323/Modetrend-Kopftuch-Models-Rapper-alle-tragen-ploetzlich-Seidentuecher.html. Accessed 13 October 2020.
Jäckel, Michael. 2006. Einführung in die Konsumsoziologie. Fragestellungen – Kontroversen – Beispieltexte. Wiesbaden: VS Verlag.
Keller, Reiner. 2019. Die Untersuchung von Dispositiven. Zur fokussierten Diskurs- und Dispositivethnografie in der Wissenssoziologischen Diskursanalyse. In Diskursive Konstruktionen. Theorie und Praxis der Diskursforschung, ed. Sasa Bosančić, and Reiner Keller, 51–73. Wiesbaden: Springer VS.
Lewis, Reina. 2019. Muslims and Fashion, Now and Then. In Contemporary Muslim Fashions, ed. Reina Lewis, and Gil D’Allessandro, 20–47. Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, Munich et al.: Prestel.
McCall, Leslie. 2015. The Complexity of Intersectionality, Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society 30 (3): 17771–1800.
Meyer, Katrin. 2017. Theorien der Intersektionalität zur Einführung. Hamburg: Junius.
Modest Fashion Forum. 2018. https://mvslim.com/mff2018/. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Nike Online Shop. 2020. Hijab Pro. https://www.nike.com/de/t/pro-hijab-y7mzD8. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Pham, Minh-Ha T. 2014. Fashions Cultural Appropriation Debate: Pointless. Atlantic, May 15, 2014. https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2014/05/cultural-appropriation-in-fashion-stop-talking-about-it/370826/. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Phoenix, Ann, and Pamela Pattynama. 2006. Editorial. European Journal of Women’s Studies: Intersectionality 13 (3): 187–192.
Puar, Jasbir. 2011. ‘Ich wäre lieber eine Cyborg als eine Göttin.‘Intersektionalität, Assemblage und Affektpolitik.“ Transversal, January, 2011. https://transversal.at/transversal/0811/puar/de. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Reckwitz, Andreas. 2004. Die Reproduktion und die Subversion sozialer Praktiken. Zugleich ein Kommentar zu Pierre Bourdieu und Judith Butler. In Doing culture: neue Positionen zum Verhältnis von Kultur und sozialer Praxis, Sozialtheorie, ed. Karl H. Hörning, and Julia Reuter, 40–54. Bielefeld: Transcript.
Rosenstein, Jenna. 2016. How will the Internet React to Marc Jacob’s Rainbow Dreadlocks? Harper’s Bazaar, September 18, 2016. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/news/a17691/marc-jacobs-models-dreadlocks-nyfw-spring-2017/. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Ross, Harling. 2020. 7 Days of Mirror Selfies and Endless Accompanying Thought Spirals. The Man Repeller, March 30, 2020. https://www.manrepeller.com/2020/03/wfh-mirror-selfies-quarantine.html. Accessed 11 October 2020.
Sulejmani, Marigona. 2018. Ist dieser Trend etwa ein heikles Thema? GRAZIA, German print issue, August 2018.
Sweetapple, Christopher, Heinz-Jürgen Voß, and Salih Alexander Wolter. 2020. Intersektionalität. Von der Antidiskriminierung zur befreiten Gesellschaft. Stuttgart: Schmetterling Verlag.
Thomas, Tanja, and Tanja Maier. 2015. Körper. In Handbuch Cultural Studies und Medienanalyse. Medien Kultur Kommunikation, ed. Andreas Hepp, Friedrich Krotz, Svantje Lingenberg, and Jeffrey Wimmer, 285–295. Wiesbaden: Springer VS.
Wallet Magazine. 2018. Admins of Authority, Issue Nr. 1.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2021 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Haddad, L. (2021). Trending Muslim Appeal and the Discourse on Intersectional Diversity. In: Thimm, V. (eds) (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style. New Directions in Islam. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-71941-8_5
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-71941-8_5
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-71940-1
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-71941-8
eBook Packages: Social SciencesSocial Sciences (R0)