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‘The Chemicals Between Us’: The Use and Discharge of Chemicals in the Life Cycle of a Pair of Jeans – From Legal Theory to Practice

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Sustainability and Law

Abstract

The use of hazardous chemicals is widely embedded throughout the life cycle of jeans. Recent literature on the use and discharge of hazardous chemicals in the denim and jeans industry reveals that in many of the production phases of a jeans, the use of such chemicals poses a health risk to cotton farmers, companies’ employees and neighboring communities, and that local eco-systems have or are becoming dysfunctional due to chemical pollution. This implies that those chemicals often negatively impact the planetary boundaries and the human right to a clean and healthy environment. This chapter first provides an analysis of the adverse impacts in each phase of the entire life-cycle of a pair of jeans (‘jeans’): (i) cotton farming and (ii) weaving & dyeing (Turkey); (iii) manufacturing (Vietnam); (iv) consumer use and (v) disposal (the Netherlands). Subsequently, the legal standards applicable to the use and discharge of (hazardous) chemicals in each of these five phases are discussed, covering international and EU law, soft law, domestic law and self-regulatory standards. In the final part, the legal standards are compared with industries’ best practices that emerged from the gathered information in a case study concerning a specific pair of jeans. This comparison provides an in-depth insight in the gap between legal theory and practice. Based on this understanding, further action can be initiated, and solutions can be developed by the denim and jeans industry and policymakers aimed at addressing the challenges revealed in this study.

∗ Title of a song of Bush (Album: The Science of Things, 1999)

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  • 06 September 2020

    The book was inadvertently published with few typesetting errors in chapters 10 and 22 which have now been corrected as below:

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Acknowledgements

The authors are members of the project team of Sustainable Market Actors for Responsible Trade (SMART) (smart.uio.nl). SMART receives funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020 Research and Innovation Programme under Grant Agreement No 693642, and we gratefully acknowledge its support.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Nyenrode Business University, Breukelen, The Netherlands

    Martine Bosman, Tineke Lambooy & Bart Jansen

  2. Faculty of Law, TOBB University of Economics and Technology, Ankara, Turkey

    Elif Oral

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  1. Martine Bosman
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  2. Tineke Lambooy
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  3. Elif Oral
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  4. Bart Jansen
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Correspondence to Martine Bosman .

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  1. Department of Ecotechnology and Sustainable Building Engineering Mid Sweden University, Östersund, Sweden

    Volker Mauerhofer

  2. Department of Economics, University of Messina (Italy), Messina, Italy

    Daniela Rupo

  3. Department of Economic Studies, University “G. d’Annunzio” of Chieti-Pescara, Pescara, Italy

    Lara Tarquinio

Annex I

Annex I

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Bosman, M., Lambooy, T., Oral, E., Jansen, B. (2020). ‘The Chemicals Between Us’: The Use and Discharge of Chemicals in the Life Cycle of a Pair of Jeans – From Legal Theory to Practice. In: Mauerhofer, V., Rupo, D., Tarquinio, L. (eds) Sustainability and Law. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-42630-9_10

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